There are many glorious science-based terms when it comes to surfing. We all talk about swells, of course, the underwater energy that creates a breaking wave. But we'll look at swell angles and ...

Surfers have taken to the ocean for centuries. Ancient Polynesian civilizations were surfing as far back as 2,000 BC, and there is evidence of wave riding in 12th-century Hawaii. Of course, back then, ...

If you're preparing for university entrance exams and need to grasp the essentials of wave theory, you're in the right place. In this video, we'll walk you through the wave equation in detail, ...

The original version of this story appeared in Quanta Magazine. The best perk of Alberto Maspero’s job, he says, is the view from his window. Situated on a hill above the ancient port city of Trieste, ...

We finally know the forces behind an 80-foot-tall wall of water that rocked the North Sea in 1995. By Laura Baisas Published Aug 5, 2025 12:30 PM EDT Get the Popular Science daily newsletter💡 ...

Usama Kadri receives funding from the Leverhulme Trust: Research Project Grant number 523930. Many devices have been designed to capture and convert waves’ great power into electricity, but today’s ...

Associate Professor of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology Rogue waves have captivated the attention of both seafarers and scientists for decades. These are giant, ...